Croatia

Croatia Itinerary Overview

We explored majestic southern Croatia by boat and car. Travelling with friends (group of 4), we were able to save on costs by sharing two-bedroom condos and 4-person car rentals, all while creating unforgettable memories together!

Trogir / Krka / Split

• Trogir – Beaches & old town
• Krka National Park – North side lunch with feet in waterfalls; South side boat trip & boardwalk trail 
• Split – Diocletian’s Palace, craft beer, Zara flagship, higgelty-piggelty streets of Varos, Riva promenade 
• Omis – Mountain fortress, beach & harbour 

Dalmatian Islands – Small Boat Cruise

• Day 1: Omis to Brac (Cash for €90 Port Tax each & €35 welcome dinner each)
• Day 2: Brac to Makarska
• Day 3: Makarska to Hvar
• Day 4: Hvar to Korcula
• Day 5: Korcula to Mljet National Park
• Day 6: Mljet to Dubrovnik
• Day 7: Dubrovnik Guided City Tour
• Day 8: Dubrovnik (breakfast & disembark at 9 am, leave cash tip for crew) 

Cavtat / Zvekovica (near Dubrovnik airport)

• Aperitifs and window shopping on waterfront promenade
• Walk around the bay for chill mini-bars & little swimming cove beach

Split Airport/Rental Car

• Airport: SPU Zračna Luka Sveti Jeronim; Airport is 7 km to Togir or 16 km to Split
• Rental Car pre-booked: Nova, €131 for 5 days, SUV Renault Megane, pickup at Split Airport, return to Split Downtown location along bus route to Omis – check Croatia Road signs that are different from North America!
  • Other Croatian car rental options – consider where their drop-off locations are in Split (close to harbour or along a bus route?) to find the best one for you! Ensure they have a green-card border fee if going to Montenegro: CarWiz, Sixt, Enterprise, Avant, Avax, Last Minute
• Or, Uber €16 to Trogir / €35 to Split (skip Taxis €50+)
• Or, take Trogir Bus 37: 10 mins to Trogir gate €1.25 on Promet app or €3 cash
• Or, take Split Charter Buses: exit airport & turn left for €8 airport bus (every 30 mins to Split)

Trogir

• Accommodations: Trogir AirBnb Apartment €110/night CAD (4 people). We stayed 5 nights. Located a 5-10 min walk to the historic island old town of Trogir, it is a city view apartment with large terrace, new building, private parking included. 2 bedrooms (1 with shower ensuite), shared bathroom (with another shower), air-conditioning every room, insuite laundry, free wifi. Free cancellation up to 5 days prior. Owners also offer airport transfers, Blue Cave boat tour (confirm if covers entrance fee before going), Krka waterfalls, other excursions (nearby Blue Lagoon & Shipwreck snorkelling).
• Best ice cream spots: Ðovani Ðovani and Bella ice cream, in historic old town island
• Inexpensive meals by Airbnb:
  • Groceries (closed Sun/holiday): Tommy (7am-9pm)/Konzum (7am-8pm) for breakfast/pre-made meals 
  • Outdoor Green Market (6am-1pm) – farmer’s market & to-go meals
  • Fast Food Obelix €5-10 (Ćevapi grilled meat €7)
  • By old town bridge entry: Street Food Trogir (€5-10 takeaway), or Quattro Sorelle (€10-15 woodfire pizzas, seating), or Siam Thai (€10-15)
  • In old town: Tunaholic Fish Bar (€10-15 patio seats, swordfish, truffle burger); Tragos sometimes has €10 specials for risotto (check blackboard prices outside first)
• Other recommended eateries:
  • Murtila, Pašike (best pizza in town), Restaurant Franka, Restaurant Bocel (next to the sea in Aci Marine, best fish and pasta place), Restaurant Toma (Old town), Restaurant Don Dino, Restaurant Kristian, Restaurant Picolo Ponte, Konoba Trs, Il Ponte restaurant, Sushi bar Amfora (Riva promenade), Wild west (best grill and burgers)
• Wander Trogir (UNESCO site on small island with bridges): medieval architecture & maze of stone lanes
• Harbour front promenade – grab a gelato, watch people & yachts, head to Kamerlengo Fortress with a great lookout tower & views of the town, and main square of St John Paul II (Trg Ivana Pava II)
• Cathedral St Lawrence (400 yrs to build) €5, ornate entryway Radovan’s Portal & bell tower views 
• Check tourism board for local Klapa (acapella) performance by fortress or town squares in late May.
• Close beaches: Gradska Plaža (showers, Cokolada bar) & larger Pantan Beach (shade, Mosquito bar)
• Walkable beaches: Saldun Beach & Plaža Rožac Beach, on way to popular Okrug Gornji Beach “Trogir Copacabana” (south 40 min coast walk/7 min uber), turquoise water, 2 km of beach, amenities, chairs €10-20
• Recommended best beaches in Trogir area:
  • Tatinje bay – Wala dine and lounge (free parking if you drink coffee there)
  • Labadusa bay – two great beach bars Laganini and Borko beach bar, best to spend the day at the beach … one has free parking other one has €5 rate for whole day
  • Copacabana beach – in Okrug, famous, lots of beach bars, live, you can reach it by small taxi boat going from Riva promenade every 20 minutes, or drive & pay to park
  • Slatine beach- also reachable by water taxi
  • Seget Donji beach- beach bar Mondo
• Boats on Trogir promenade: Blue Lagoon at Drvenik Veli (4-5 hrs: snorkel/swim shallow turquoise water, and/or shipwreck, 45 min boat (15 km), close to Trogir) or Blue Cave (10-12 hrs: 5 sites, 4 hr boat (75 km), €20 cash rowboat cave 5-10 mins, sea must be right or can’t enter) €65-135 or Airbnb owner can arrange.
• Trogir Photo Ops:
  • Historic Centre: narrow alleys with hanging laundry or ivy-covered stone walls “local” vibe.
  • City Loggia & Clock Tower: stand in Main Square & use blue-faced clock tower background. 
  • Shaded arches of City Loggia provide soft, flattering natural light for selfies.
  • Riva (Waterfront): tall palm trees & moored yachts on Promenade: classic Mediterranean 
  • Trogir Bridge to Čiovo Island: Walking across bridge gives a clear shot of Trogir’s entire skyline
  • Seget Donji Viewpoint: With a car, see the dedicated Photo Point on road above Trogir (toward Seget Donji) that captures the island-town sitting in the middle of the glassy sea. 
  • Tip: Stone buildings reflect a lot of light midday – aim for “Golden Hour” (1 hour before sunset) 
• Daytrips: Split & Kraka Park (check KrKa weather / Split cruise arrivals for when/how many people are onsite) – go to Split on a quiet cruise day (ranges 2,000-9,000 cruise people) and to Krka on a nice weather day.
• Cruise Prep: stock up on water bottles, alcohol & snacks for cruise (1 litre/day water provided) – shops close on Sundays & State Holidays, so buy these in advance
• Checkout of accomodations, drive rental car with luggage 40 mins to Split & return car, take bus to Omis (or split an Uber), check-in to cruise with luggage, wander Omis waterfront promenade; board cruise for lunch departure

Krka National Park

• Check KrKa weather and Split cruise arrivals (when/how many people), to pick which day to go to Krka/Split
• Krka pronounced ‘KUR-kah’, busiest 11-3 & weekends, 1-hr drive on A-1 expressway, swimming is only allowed at Roski
• Quietest: 8-9 am or 4-7 pm. 90% of tourists go to Skradin/10% go to Roski.
• Park entry fee (€20 May, or €40 June; buy online & book lunch to skip line, 8 am-7 pm)
• Full Access ticket €20 (titled “Skradinski buk & all other localities” allows multiple Krka stops, but only once per day (enter Roski Slap, then drive to Skradin entrance & take boat to falls, but cannot enter Skradin twice in 1 day – prevents ticket sharing) – pick timeslot for Skradin boat; Roski is anytime
• Or a ticket €12 for Roški Slap only (cannot enter Skradinski Buk; boats are from Skradin only)
• Drive to north Roski Slap (20-30 mins from Skadin, drive not boat, for time to explore) – allowed in May but not June on, same entrance fee, free parking near Roški slap reception (follow signs Roški Slap or Laškovica). Alternative: go early by boat from Skradinaski Buk Waterfall (4 hrs return, €15-20, arrive before 9 am for crowds, stops at Visovac Island monastery, but shorter/limited time to explore)
• Lunch at Roski Slap small waterfalls:
  • dine with your feet in the water at Alte Mühle Kristijan (reserve ahead, €12-30 menu, cash only 
  • Panorama Roski Slap restaurant or at mill restaurant (no info)
• At Roski Slap, spend afternoon exploring Ogrlice “Necklaces” series of small cascading waterfalls via 1.4 km walking trail, climb 517 steps to Oziđana Pećina Cave (light jacket), or swim at designated areas.
• Best photo ops:
  • halfway up to Oziđana pećina cave get “birds-eye” selfie view of “necklaces” & islands
  • road bridge crossing river at Roški Slap captures river with rugged canyon
• Drive to Skranlin (quiet after 4 pm), stunning Skradinaki Buk Waterfall: ticket includes Skranlin boat to falls (goes to falls on the hour & back on the half-hour), or shuttle bus Lozovac to falls. No swimming.
• Glassy Skadin visitors centre (8am-7pm), limited parking, or city-owned €1.30/hr near large children’s playground or €7-10 flat rate at private lots), can go direct to hourly boat with online booking (20-min trip), or park at Lozovac entrance (free big lot, but no boat ride) & take shuttle (every 20 mins)
• Or public bus (€12-14 each way to/from Split, none from Trogir) – 1.5 hrs from Split harbour bus station to Skadin visitor centre. Or Uber for €100 each way.
• Walk the falls one-way route to up to Ethno Village (terrace has free washrooms & great views down over falls), then take 1.5-mile boardwalk to explore falls. More restaurants & snack carts located at bottom of falls by bridge. Washrooms by boat are pay to use €1
• Food is expensive in the park, and often low quality, may be better to eat in town:
  • Snacks at falls: Burek €5 & double scoop ice cream €4, near falls & Skradin boat pier
  • In-park: Krka Restaurant: Cevapi sausages €15 (burger, fries & drink is €34!), near falls
  • In-town: Konoba Dalmatino, 2-min walk, traditional konoba, large outdoor terrace, authentic dishes €15-20 grilled meats, octopus salad, signature Skradinski Rižot (Skradin Risotto)
• Other excursions available (2-4 hr boats), Visovac Island monastery €15 includes 30 mins at monastery. 

Split

• Check Split weather and Split cruise arrivals of when/how many people, to pick which day to go. Busiest 11am-3pm
• Drive rental car 35 mins from Trogir to Split (or take 1-hr Bura Line boat (€9 pay onboard, 4/day), or coach bus (€6, 40 mins, tickets Flix or Arriva (buses may have different branding on them, luggage €1)
• Use Park Split App to see where open parking spaces are & costs – cannot drive through old town, so see if east or west of old town is better for parking, before setting the driving navigation
• 2 parking lots that are easy to get to in cheap Zone-3 (Parkiralište Zvončac) by ACI Marina €0.80/hr or €10/day with scenic 15-min harbour walk to old town (machines take cards or use app, no fees in evening, circle a few times – people leave often, or try ACI Marina Lucicia (small roads) & walk through Varos). Or ‘Parking Split’ (Istarska ul. 4, 21000) outdoor lot, narrower roads, €1-2/hr with 5-10 min walk to Eastern Silver Gate/Green Market. Don’t park by yellow curb paint: for handicap. Street parking is confusing even to locals & hefty fines. Close parking by Riva/Ferry is €4-5/hr or €35/day.
• Use washrooms in paid sites & free by Silver Gate, Zara & Fisherman’s Warf.
• Split Old Town (Stari Grad): explore Diocletian’s Palace, coffee on Riva promenade, wander Varoš
• Ferries arrive at 9 am – avoid the harbour area & cellars during the crush!
• From the Harbour entrance, visit Diocletian’s cellars. Underground chambers immediately on the left, when you enter the long corridor has the best look at Roman ruins. Game of Thrones was filmed here. €8 entry (hot out: cellars are cool). Also includes chambers on opposite side of corridor (east) with Egyptian black granite Sphinxes. Use included washrooms in the cellars (there are very few in Split)
• Continue through the palace & upstairs to the Peristil (main square) with Egyptian red granite pillars & black sphinx. Red cushions around the square are for lounging with drinks from Luxor Bar (live music in evening). Pop back up the stairs for the Grand Entry Vestibule with domed open roof, to hear Klapa singers perform traditional acapella. The 4 niches in the walls once held statures of the 4 rulers.
• Head back down to the Peristyle to see the octagonal Cathedral of St Domnius (Katedrala Sv. Duje). Buy a blue ticket €9 (sold across the square) to enter everything but tower (museum is skip-able). Closes at 6 pm & may close for weddings Sat afternoons, modest dress required. Diocletian murdered Bishop St Dominus & thousands of Christians; after he died they changed his mausoleum into a church with the bishop’s remains & Diocletian’s remains were never found. St Anastasius sarcophagus is ornate, with a millstone around neck to show his martyrdom. Carved wood doors show 28 scenes of Christ. Crypt is easy to miss – exit cathedral main door, down stairs & loop left. Great acoustics, colourful statues & well for eye washing (St Lucia patron saint of eyesight).
• Head down the narrow alley directly across from the cathedral entry to see St John’s Baptistry (formerly Jupitor’s Temple), intricately carved nautical rope motifs, statue of John the Baptist counting to 4 by famous Croatian artist Ivan Mestrovic. Half-barrel ceiling: every face & pattern box is different.
• Best Photo Op: “Let Me Pass” Street (Pusti me proći) by Jupiter Temple: 1 of narrowest streets in world
• Snacks/Lunch:
  • 1 block walk: Leopold’s Craft Beer Bar (€5-10, cave-like interior or outdoor patio, live music)
  • 1 block further: Croasan viral “over-the-top” filled hot croissants fill with decadent toppings
  • Lunch: ST Burek outrageously cheap big slice of burek (savory pastry of meat/cheese) costs €2.
  • Head up Cardo Street for Roman ruins & innovative artisan Chocolatier Nadalina. 
• Just before you arrive at Golden Gate (end of street), jog left onto Majstora Jurja Street for lively street entertainment & go up 40 stone steps to 5th century minuscule-sized St Martin’s Chapel, €1.
• Golden Gate main entrance: stand between massive double doors to view the artistry. Outside the gate is a statue of Bishop Gregory by Ivan Mestrovic – rub toe for luck!
• Through Silver Gate: open-air Pazar Green Market (open 8-12): pick up snacks/picnic). Hidden behind souvenir stands is authentic market – nuts, veg, cheeses, pickles & honey; big wheels of bread cooked under copper pots (buy slice). Small eateries serve hot meats/savoury pies
• Through Iron Gate: see People’s Square (Narodni Trg) with grand old cafe Gradska Kavana (great ambiance for a drink, or Bepa next door has better food) & nearby fish market Ribarnica.
• Stroll Riva seaside pedestrian harbour promenade, for great views & people watching – lights up in evening. Occasional sulphide smells are from mineral spas. 
• On west side of Riva promenade, head up lively Marmontova Street & duck into beautiful Trg Republike square to enjoy an al fresco drink or pizza at Bajamonti. 
• Further up Marmontova is a modern art fountain & shopping district: Zara store at street end (flagship store, 4 stories tall), Tommy Hillfiger store, Benetton, Mango, Bershka, Massimo Dutti, Deisel, etc.
  • Women: pants/dresses: add 32 (size 10 is size 42); shoes: add 30-31 (size 9=39-40)
  • Men: dress shirts: multiply by 2 & add 8 (15 = 38); jackets/suits: add 10; shoes: add 32-34
  • If purchasing €100+ on 1 receipt, ask store to fill out VAT form (21-25% value added tax) & show photo of passport. Go early to VAT Refunder/airport customs to process refund (or mail)
• Split up for shopping, or wander Varoš (delightfully higgelty-pigglty medieval streets nearby)
• Supper – pop down nearby lane between theatre & Church for many local food hotspots (Pizzeria Kaleta: patio, massive pizzas €15, burgers €6, homemade bread sandwiches €5) with a nearby Cat Village
• Other eateries:
  • Soul kitchen, Bokeria restaurant, Bokamora pizza and cocktails bar, Dvor restaurant 
• Atmospheric drinks with nightfall lighting views:
  • Buy inexpensive craft beers (150 Balkan varieties) or wine at Mali Dućanto (‘Little Beer Shop’) to enjoy with locals at Matejuška pier by Riva for views of old town (they’ll open bottles for you) – or cheaper in nearby Varos Studenac grocery or further out Konzum grocery.
    • Nearby Bokamora is open to Midnight for unique pizzas €15-17 in a glamourous setting
  • Savour an inexpensive cold beer & pastry at Bobis in atmospheric Trg Republike square
  • Enjoy a café on the Riva with the walls lit up 
  • In old town: Luxor is expensive (€11 wine, €6 beer) but atmospheric (live music starts 8 pm)
• Rental car return – near harbour or along main road (Poljicka) where Bus 60 to Omis picks up.

Travel Talk Cruise

• There are lots of small boat cruises that travel around the Dalmatian Islands – we chose Travel Talk Cruise as they were inexpensive but had everything we needed. We booked early and reserved a cabin with two single beds and an ensuite bath on the main level (better for seasickness). There were fancier boats out there, but this tour was perfect for us as flash-packers (one step up from backpackers).
• Cruises usually leaves either Split or Omis (pronounced ‘oh-mish’) at 1 pm sharp and ends after breakfast at 9am (Sat-Sat) – sometimes the ports change after you’ve booked, so you need to be flexible
• Show your travel insurance & pay port fees & welcome dinner fees in cash, when boarding
• Drinks on ship are paid nightly in cash only, tip envelopes for cash for crews are provided on last day
• Includes: M/S Morena travel, accommodations (a/c & wifi in common area, deposit box, ensuite toilet/shower, hairdryer), sun loungers, breakfast, lunch, swim spots, orientation walks, itinerary
• Note the port closures, rough weather or plan changes, occur frequently on all small boat cruises no matter the company (we got to about 80% of the listed destinations), so don’t be surprised if you miss swim stops or ports of call along the way

Omis

Bus Split to Omis

• Split Harbour has a bus station with multiple charter-buses to Omis €3-11 (multi-stop, can get on along Poljicka road), or Uber €30-50 (or more if surge pricing for holidays)
  • Bus Promet Split #60 runs every 30 mins, takes 1 hour to drive (has multiple stops), starting at Pazar 1 by Split harbour entrance (stops along Poljicka road in Split near some car rentals), €2 on Promet app, Pazar Ticket Booth, Tisak Newsstands, or €3-4 cash to driver) 
  • Charter Bus Promet Makarska: €4, takes 30-45 mins
  • Flix Bus & Dalmatanic & Autoherc: €9, takes 30-45 mins
• If travelling on a holiday, stores close & roads will be very busy!! Allow double drive times
• Return car rental to Nova, stop and take a photo at the SPLIT sign, then walk 2 mins to PAZAR 2 to catch the bus to Omis (cruise boat check-in by 1 pm).

Explore Omis

• Omis (pronounced ‘Oh-mish’) – drop off luggage & go explore, or split up for hiking or sipping coffee while holding luggage
• Mirabella Fortress (Peovica) steep but short 5-10 min climb behind parish church to 360-degree views of old town, Cetina River & Brač, €5 tower. Hike before it’s hot. (24 min walk to harbour)
• Velika Plaža (Big Beach) sandy (rare for Croatia) and is shallow & warm (8-min walk to harbour)
• Pebble Beach
• House of the Happy Man (Kuća sretnog čovjeka) – beautifully preserved 16th-century Renaissance house: Latin inscription above door: “I thank thee, Lord, for having lived in this world”. It’s a quick but famous ‘photo op’ in a narrow alleyway (6 min walk to harbour)
• Relax at outdoor cafes on St. Michael’s Square (5 min walk to harbour)
• Check out a beautiful view point
• Lunch: Fast Food Tasty: town center, fast, huge portions. Jumbo kebab, burgers, pizza under €10.
• Other Food Recommendations: Restaurant Ultimo, Restaurant Grego’s, Restaurant Puljiz and pastry shop Gemelli (incredible mini-cakes!)

Brač

• Brač (pronounced ‘Bratch’) island is famous for Zlanti Rat Beach (also called Golden Cape/Horn) with sandy/pebble beach that changes shapes with the currents, 20 mins walk from resort town of Bol.
• If the Zlatni Rat beach is too crowded, walk 10 minutes in the opposite direction from the town center to find quieter pebble coves near the Dominican Monastery.
• Snacks/Supper (or welcome social dinner party aboard ship for €35 each, cash, doesn’t include drinks):
  • Ice cream special €2/scoop, local fav since 1972, large selection, friendly service
  • Bakeries (Pekarnicas) €1.50-€3 snacks, Burek (meat/cheese pastry), Krafne (doughnuts)
  • Arguola €7-12 hot focaccia sandwiches/pizza, patio, waterfront
  • Next door Balkan Grill €10-15, #1 Bol bbq, traditional, truffle fries, stone building, ketchup €2
  • Snack Box €10 burgers & fries on the Zlatni Rat promenade
  • Konoba Dinko €15-20 great sea view, pasta or fish/meat platters done on charcoal
  • Fancier Santos €20-30 with view of the sea & white tablecloths 
• Cheap drinks on shady treed patio at Marinero Cafe Bar

Makarska

• Makarska is on mainland coast where Biokovo Mountains dramatically meet Adriatic Sea
• Known for: riviera beaches, seafront promenade, monastery seashell museum (€6-8) & nightlife
• Check out the St Petar Statue and main square with St. Mark Cathedral and beautiful old trees
• Supper options:
  • Pape €15-25 waterfront, great pizza & large seafood plates
  • Papar Grill Makarska €10-15, 8 min walk from beach, combo restaurant/butcher shop, ensuring high-quality ćevapi, mixed grill plates (no view)
  • More formal Restaurant Berlin (€15-25 pizza/pasta)
  • Craft beers from city of Makarska
• Sunset drinks: 20 min coastal walk to cheaper beachy spots:
  • Buba beach (cheap drinks & DJs)
  • Cubano Beach Bar (hot sandwiches)
  • Deep Makarska (cave with sunset views & disco at night)
  • Stylish Sól Music Bar (€5 wine)
  • Beach Bar Neverin
• Sunset views along Makarska beach at waterfront & St. Peter Peninsula
• Stop for cakes, gelato and coffee at Romana or try the smoothies, toasts and brunch at Cafe Bar Smile
• Urban Garden has wine, cocktails and finger food, or drip-coffee and wine lovers 

Hvar Island

• Hvar pronounced ‘Far’, aka “Croatian Riveria”, most expensive posh island, with celebrities & nightclubs (in Hvar old town) or quiet dreamy atmosphere (in Jelsa) 
• Most sights close for an afternoon siesta – that’s a good time to go for a swim!
• Lavender & coral products are sold everywhere on Hvar; Wineries are much better on Korcula island
• “Sulphur” Smell: Like Split, Hvar has natural springs, “rotten eggs” near harbour is a spa not a sewer!
• Cruises many dock at different ports at the island – larger Hvar Old Town with yachts, or tiny town of Jelsa (pronounced ‘”YEL-shah’) with small boat cruises
• In either town, wander the old streets, see the cathedral, swim, people-watch, walk the promenade with an ice cream, and in the cool of early evening hike up the hill or around the coves for golden hour & sunset
• Hvar Old Town has concrete pads & pebble beaches in each direction of waterfront for swimming:
  • East of old town walk 20 mins (past Franciscan Monastery) to main beach Pokonjo Dol (water shoes: sea urchins) w/showers – if busy, carry on: Robinson beach or Uber 2.5 mi to Milna resort
  • West of old town (right when facing water) walk past cactus garden to Hotel Amfora for public showers & carry on to Hula Hula for chair rentals, cocktails & DJ (or the same view without the prices, the rocks just past the club are public & free), or further to Falko beach, or Blue Lagoon (not the famous Drvenik Veli) near Podstine Hotel (nearby dive shop rents snorkel gear)
  • Or hop an excursion boat from harbour (€15 roundtrip, 20 mins, leaves 10-2 & returns 4-7 – confirm when buying ticket) to island Palmizana (pronounced: pahl-mee-ZHAH-nah) – Jerolim & Stipanska are cheaper but nude. From Palmizana dock, follow signs short walk to Vinogradisce beach. Or hike a hearty 45-mins to Vlaka on rough trail across island spine (no beach, just a hike)  
• Hvar Old Town activities:
  • June-Sept is Summer Festival in Hvar Old Town, with music in Franciscan Monastery cloister – schedules posted in Tourist Info office in big Arsenal building on main square (they have free maps as well)
  • Main Square Trg Svetog Stjepana (St Stephen) is filled with cafes
  • Arsenal building on the square (TI on 1^st flr), stone steps up to 2^nd flr terrace with free great views, leads to beautiful 1612 theatre (just restored) created to bring peace between peasants/nobles (€10 or combo ticket w/fortress €15, 9-9): check out box seats, painted ceiling, 1819 stage mural, video, exhibit  
  • St Stephen Cathedral (€2, 9-12 or 4:30-7:30) with bronze door reliefs, English sheets at entrance, chapel to right of main altar with a crucifix that shed blood tears in 1510 on night of the uprising which delayed it a few months) & near exit Altar of St Luke has a 15^th century gothic stone triptych.
  • Nearby Porta Maestra Wine Shop has Roman Mosaics in basement they encourage visitors to see
  • Wander back lanes to enjoy old town: stone tabs with holes for colorful flags announcing life events
  • Franciscan Monastery is a 10-min walk east: 15^th century hospice for sailors (€7, 9-3 & 5-7) with a cloister floor pointed inwards to collect water into pipes that went to waterfront for ships, 1640 Last Supper painting, little museum with Greek coins of Zeus, paintings, gardens with huge 350 year old Cyprus tree that was struck by lightning (has supports now) & a colorful cloister chapel 
  • Yellow Benedictine Convent has a small quirky lace museum run by 13 nuns using agave plant fibers (intricate example outside, €5 inside, 10-12 & 4-8, ring bell), close to path up to fortress 
  • Fortress hike (steep 30 mins) has no shade – walk in cooler morning or early evening: arrive for golden hour where city below lights up (1-2 hr before 8:25 pm sunset) or go early to explore (€10 or combo ticket with Arsenal €15, 9-10, or can watch sunset free from path). From old town, go up steep Groda street, though entry gate with castle symbol & up the switchbacks – follow signs for ‘Fortica/Tvrđava’. Fortress built in 13^th century & beefed up by Spanish in 14^th century, destroyed by lightening hitting gunpowder store. Grand views, dungeon, café (no view), archeological shipwreck pieces
  • Antonio Rent (by bus station) has scooters €50/day
• Food is typically expensive in Hvar old town:
  • Snacks/picnic from grocery Konzum (9-9, closed Sun) by bus station or Studenac in town square, or bakeries or Cafe Pjaca (8-8) on square, to eat on stone bench by Arsenal overlooking square or embankment along harbour (rude to eat in front of grocery store)
  • Restaurants are best at 6 pm before the rush. Supper at Restaurant Villa Dinka with great views, truffle gnocchi, calamari black rice, €5 glasses homemade wine, carbonara for €12
  • Restaurant Palace Paladini for Zagrebački Odrezak (Cordon Bleu) €12 & mixed meat plate €15. 
  • Busy Fig for flatbreads, burritos, korma or burgers located in an atmospheric alley 20m from main square (located between Pizza Kogo/La Bocca), €18-25
  • Regional tapas plates at Konoba Menego (menu lists region each food type is original to, cash only) with cave-like terrace on Groda lane that leads up to fortress, €15-€35/tapas plate
• Evenings in Hvar Old Town:
  • Picturesque harbour light drinks on 4th Flr Bar Terrace of waterfront Adriana Hotel (€6-8 beer/wine)
  • Stroll harbour’s east side after dark for best view of lights, and look at stars
  • Join the nightlife party on rocks of Hula Hula beach with drinks & DJ (great sunset view)
  • Or in town by waterfront promenade head to Sidro for cheaper drinks (or Seven, Nautica, Kiva, Aloha) 
  • Spacious Central Park Club has live music & relaxed feel (€8-14 drinks)
• Town of Jesla:
  • Main Church of the Assumption of Mary 
  • Small Church of Saint John
  • Main Square Pjaca 
  • Jelsa Park
  • Statue of Our Donkey 
  • Great gelato, cake and coffee shop in Jelsa
  • Stroll the Riva Promenade and cosy walled lanes
  • Unusual buildings in the Jelsa town cemetery at the end of the cove

Korčula (Žrnovo) Island

• Korčula (pronounced ‘KOHR-choo-la’): wander the medieval Venetian old town – the fish bone angle street catches a nice fresh cool breeze!
• Climb the Great Land Gate Tower for town views & traditional costume displays (€3)
• Four panels ring the town square with industries: stone quarry, fishing, ship building, winemaking
• Enjoy a cocktail on the sea wall at Massimo 3rd level (up ladder through sea wall), drinks sent up via a pulley system on outside of tower—watch for it! One of best photo ops in town, open 4pm-midnight
• Or nearby wine bars like Bokar (10-midnight) or Mariola (4-12) with local wines, cheeses & meats
• Local wines from this island are white wines: GRK – made out of white grape that growes on sandy and salty land at Lumbarda, and POŠIP – white grape from middle part of island
• All Saints Church (baroque painted ceiling panels) with +15 walkway into an Icon Museum (€4, 10-3)
• Or St Mark’s Cathedral & attached museum (12^th century hymnal, Greek coins, throne (€5, 9-7)
• Town Museum in newly restored Gabrielis Palace (€6, 9-7)
• Waterfront street promenade  Put Svetog Nikole has sunbathing perches & swim ladders between the boats
• Stop by Cukarin for traditional sweets and treats like almond cakes outside the Great Land Gate. Try “Klašun” (nut-filled pastry). Owner is famous for being “a character”, strictly forbids photos inside
• Moreska Traditional Sword Dance 9 pm outside land gate €20, Thurs, some Mon/Tues (tourist office)
• Small pebbly clear water beaches southeast & west of town (Banje, Oreb Shell Bay, or Medvinjak)
• Supper in Korcula town:
  • Pizzeria Tedeschi has €12 pizzas (cash) at sea-view seats (arrive by 6:30)
  • Leo Food old town alley seating serves inexpensive Cevapi grilled meat soft buns or kebabs
  • Picnic from the outdoor market at main gate, or Konzum grocery store, to eat on seafront perches down Put Svetog Nikole road with great views, or along old town embankments 
• Lumbarda: can take Uber (€9, 7 km Gate to Lumbarda), water taxi, local bus (€2.50, from station near Konzum (hourly)to “Grk” statue), or land taxi.
• Explore along Lumbarda seaside promenade, walk past pebbly beaches over to better beaches: Tatinja beach, Bilin Zal beach, or Vela Przina beach (whichever isn’t windy that day) for warmer sandy shallow beaches (sunbed rental €7). Note: boat may stop for swimming at the beaches here in the morning. Can also check out the Andy Capp cartoon wall mural in town. 
• Lumbarda snacks/food:
  • Studenac grocery to assemble a shore picnic
  • Pizzeria Torkul: €10-15 great pizza with cheap wine, beautiful views of bay
  • Konoba Dušica: Čevapčići €12 & local brandies (like Orahovac) for just €2
  • Beachfront patio Konoba (taverns) at Bilin Zal beach or Vela beach Plaza Pržina Cafe / Beach Bar
• Lumbarda is one of the only places in the world that grow Grk grapes. Grk only has female flowers, so it must be planted with Plavac Mali (red grapes) to pollinate.
• Lumbarda Wineries (most open about 1 pm, some at 4 pm, all cash-only) for ‘grk’, plavac & rose wine:
  • Krsinic Winery right in Lumbarda town with a laid-back shady courtyard, handmade sign, 100 year of history, giant stone olive press wheel & wines at €3/glass
  • Cipre Winery is a 5-min walk from Krsinic Winery, slightly uphill from shore with amazing views, family run history, €10 tastings, €5 glasses, €10 charcuteries
  • Artes Winery has fancy tables right on the water (no prices listed online, cash only for wine tastings & charcuterie)
  • More winery views: Nobilo, Cebalo, Vinarija “Luče” (on Bilin Zal beach €2.50 taste, €5 glass) 
  • Hilltop: Winery Sabulum, Bire (BEE-reh) Winery (more expensive & some tour buses – arrive at 1 for a good table) or Popic Winery (cheaper & quieter, same views) Popic & Bire are 5 min walk apart with similar views, 15-min walk up from shore, or take uber direct from Korcula to Popic, then walk to Bire, then walk down to explore town/beaches, €15-25 cash for 2-3 wines, snacks. 
  • Or can book a wine tasting trip (€75/pp) at Korkyra Info by Korcula land gate
• Taxi Boat Korcula hop on/off trips: old town to nearby sights (Badija Island beaches, hikes, monastery, art gallery) €8-10 per trip/person 
• Korčula Town Nightlife:
  • Seawall drinks up ladder at Massimo or live music at Step Caffe Bar below Great Land Gate 
  • Hidden gem restaurant: Servantes – Food & Wine Bar (just outside the main gates in a park, not to fancy but the food is excellent, prices are €10-15 – ask about the included live music (usually starts 8 pm in summer)  
  • Other restaurants: Fundamentum (local food, family owned), Adio Mare (seafood restaurant), really good pizza places (Tesoro, Pizzeria Pape,  Tedeschi, MAHA Bar (burgers, salads, wraps)

Mljet National Park

• Mljet is pronounced ‘muhl-YAYT’; locals say it inspired Homer’s Ulysses & could be the location of Apostle Paul’s poison snake
• Wear swimsuit under clothes & bring towel/snorkel, no changerooms in park, bring cash for bikes
• Grab water/snacks at port Lito Market; free water points & small eateries at towns Babine Kuce/Soline
• Walk or electric shuttle (5/day) from port to national park
• National Park has a €25 fee (credit card) – only need it if taking the boat otherwise they don’t check, closes 8 pm, free map & boat trip to St. Mary Island (do first)
• Pick up point for Saint Mary Island. Lake boat launches at Mali Most (small bridge) & Pristaniste (may change depending on wind or weather), takes 15 mins, departs 1-2/hr (schedule posted at dock/info kiosks), from boat turn left & walk up stairs to explore 12^th century Benedictine monastery, then head up easy trail to top of island past Roman ruins, and back down other side to a promenade on back of island with swim spots, follow it around back to boat docks & grab a drink at fancy island Melita Restaurant (pay washrooms) while waiting for next boat
• Pristaniste has a park office & the best washrooms (not pit toilets like small bridge)
• Swim at beach near Malo Small Bridge, ride the current at Mali Most Bridge between lakes (natural “lazy river”) under stone bridge (shallow but watch for sharp rocks on bottom), or enjoy secluded coves all around 2 turquoise saltwater lakes (Malo small lake has warmer water 26-29°C)
• Rent a bike (€6-25, ask for bike lock) or kayak (€20-35) at Mali Most (small bridge), not at port (terrain is rocky & steep there) to go around Great Lake (takes 1-hour plus stops). 
• Bike Great Lake: mostly-paved, tree-shade, level 5-mile lake path. Clockwise (water on right) through town Babine Kuce (can detour ½ mile to Soline town & past it to snorkel), carry bikes over small bridges
• Small Lake isn’t great for biking (rocky path), but a nice 30 min walk around it.
• Snorkel coral reef (brown pillow coral) near Soline: giant Noble Pen Shells (inland side of Veliki Most bridge) – avoid big currents, use Incoming Tide water flow from sea into Big Lake for best snorkelling visibility & no current out to sea (boats point bows into current), or Slackwater between tides. Use cruise snorkel gear or rent at Pomena Port Aquatica or ActiveMljet
• Montokuc is a serious hike up 830 feet – if going bring lots of water, follow blue arrows
• Supper: usually cash only, look for daily specials (marende), avoid price by weight (most expensive)
  • Konoba Pikala €12-18 black risotto/pasta in Goveđari (Soline) or large lake Mali Raj  
  • Waterfront Pomena (by boat) Konoba Ribar, Konoba Ana, or uphill Restaurant Melody (pizza)

Dubrovnik Old Town

• Port Gruz dock: Uber €8-12 to Pile (Pee-leh) Gate entrance to Dubrovnik, or take Bus 1a, 1b, 3 or 8 (bus is free w/Dubrovnik pass, or €2 ticket at news/kiosk): ask for ‘auto-bus-na karta’ paper-card to tap, or pay on bus via credit card tap €2.50
• Public washrooms: at Old Port by Lokrum Island Ticket Office, Pile Gate parking lot & outside Polce Gate
• If walking the Dubrovnik wall (€40) get the online Dubrovnik pass (€40 1-day/€50 3-days), show QR code to Port Gruz Libertas bus (or show at a bus ticket kiosk for a paper day-ticket) for free transit to/from Dubrovnik; scan QR code to enter sites
• Dubrovnik cruise ship crowds busiest 9-1 & often 5-6:30 pm (cruise arrival list of times/how may tourists: 4 large ships can be 6,000 people!) – savour town early or late to avoid crowds
• Suppers, each 1 block off main Stradun (skip expensive ‘restaurant row’ on Prijeko Street):
  • Barba (€15-20, makes craft beer, giant burger/sample plate)
  • Preša (€6-9 toasties, €10-15 burgers, crepes) 
  • Holy Burek (€7-9 takeaway meat in pita) 
  • Buffet Skola (€5-10 old-school sandwich shop; skip overpriced ham/cheese board) 
  • Just outside old town: sunset & quiet Dodo Beach Bar on water (€4-6 beer/wine, salad/burgers)
  • By Gruz ferry port: Bon Appetit Bistro-Pizzeria or Serenade (live music, cakes, pastries & baklava)
• Snacks (SE side):
  • Gelato ‘Sladoled’ at Gianni by pastry chef Gianni (worked in Michelin Star) & French pastries (free onsite washroom)
  • Fruit/handmade goods from Gundulić outdoor market (best in morning)
  • Mlinar bakery & Kozum grocery near outdoor market square
  • Peppino’s Gelato has unique flavours, 2 locations (Old Port/Monastery & Serbian Orthodox)
• Scenic picnic sites: east old port shady benches/Porporela pier; greenspace below west Pile Gate
• Stop by Beer Factory Dubrovnik 40 craft varieties in shady garden courtyard (2 blocks off Stradun €7)
• Walk top of city walls (daily 8 am-7:30 pm, €40 includes 1-day Dubrovnik pass, take 2 hrs) – wall gets very hot, no shade, bring water, pick a cloudy day, or go early (8am) or late (4pm), enter at much quieter Ploce (Ploh-cheh) Gate & walk counter-clockwise (tackles steepest part first) – Pile Gate is often busiest & most congested section (but if it’s free can start there – check cruise list), can’t leave & re-enter (use washrooms in Rector’s Palace or by Ploce Gate before walk; Martime Museum washrooms at end
• Wander car-free Stari Grad (old town) main street Stradum; stop for gargoyles, gelatos, people-watch
• Franciscan Monastery & apothecary near Pile gate by gargoyle step, €6 or free on pass, peaceful cloister with 60 unique arch tops, frescos & pharmacy in use since 1317 with glass jars & paintings
• Free cathedrals by Stradun (best one: Serbian Orthodox Church, no pews, standing is respect)
• Stop at Buza II bar that hangs out a hole in the wall with incredible views of harbour & wall – if it’s full (usually at sunset), grab a drink & scamper down to sit on rocks (€6-8, cash only). Buza I has no shade, but more room, younger crowd (or buy a cold beer at local mali dućan (small shop) & sit on rocks just below Buza I bar for same view at 1/4 price. Head up the grand staircase by St. Agnius Church, go left to lane that runs along seawall – walk along it to right for Buza II and left for Buza I 
• Memorial Room of Defenders by Sponza Palace clocktower, photos of war, beautiful courtyard 
• Small Dubrovnik Pass museums (Best: City Walls, Lovrjenac Fortress lookout, Franciscan Monastery apothecary, Rector’s Palace; Other: Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum, House of Marin Držić, Natural History, Modern Art (MOMAD), Dulčić Masle Pulitika Gallery, Pulitika Studio, Archaeological Exhibition Revelin Fortress, plus 24h Bus ticket) – pop into Museutms to use clean washrooms there!
• Shopping: 
  • Highly recommended: DESA & KAWA (just outside Ploce Gate) sell local arts & crafts. 
  • Microbrews: KAWA has a fridge full
  • Od Puca Street: best prices for silver filigree/red coral jewellery (near Serbian Orthodox Church)
  • Dubrovačka kuća (handicrafts) or Maria (clothes) across from Dominican Monastry Polce Gate
• Can sunbath or swim (from west to east), no sandy beaches:
  • Boninovo Bay (5-min bus or 20-min walk, steep narrow staircases & no washrooms)
  • Pile Gate (by fort): Bokar, West Harbour & Šulić (Beach Bar Dodo has swings overlooking water).
  • Buza I bar rocks area (bring a beach towel to sit on) 
  • Old Port – follow uneven steps that cling to outside of city wall to a series of great coves
  • Lokrum Island – take €30 ferry, concrete swim pads, sharp rocks
  • Ploce Gate 5-min to Danje beach (pebbly, public entrance through bar) great views of old town
  • Uber (or 25 min walk uphill) to quiet St Jakob Beach (distant views of old town) 
• Can sea kayak (€50 half day), available along walls, to Lokrum island, or secluded pebble beaches 
• Evening stroll through town, sunset colours reflect off smooth stone, take in city at its best & quietest, listen to free Jazz music live at Buniceva Plojana square by Troubadour café, see the lights at Old Port
• Mt Srd Views (best at sunset & night lighting): Bring a coat/wrap as it gets cool up top, esp. after sunset
  • Public Bus #17 (€2 or free on pass, Pile Gate to village of Bosanka; 20-min walk from there in daylight only) 
  • Bolt or Uber (€15-30 from outside Pile Gate – some Ubers will cancel as it is a narrow road up & a small fare) & can Uber from top back to Port Gruz boat. If cable car isn’t running (“Bora” wind), Ubers jack their fares to the summit, Bolt also uses Taxis which can be more reliable
  • Ride cable car €30 (3-min ride; €15 each way) up Mount Srd, buy tickets onsite, past Buza Gate: walk steeply uphill via Boskovicera, 2 lines: shorter is for tickets, longer is for ride – ask people to move to get through to ticket line to the ride line, doesn’t run on Bora wind days), go on a clear day for sunset: runs approximately 9am-midnight (check when getting tickets), runs 2+/hr on the :00 & :30). Busiest 9-12 & sunset
  • Best Views: Cable car platforms (cable car level/above it), from cross or fort museum roof (€5), or if taking an Uber, ask them to take you to the hilltop viewpoint located just before Restaurant Panorama (you can see all of the islands – bring a bottle of wine & charcuterie to enjoy on the rocks with everyone!) 
  • Restaurant Panorama great views (‘light lunch’ is cheaper before 6 pm)
  • Can walk down ‘12 Stations of the Cross’ to hike back into town (45 mins, go in daylight only)
  • Can see Mt Srd via Panorama Zipline (€50-55 includes a ride up from Old Town, picturesque view of old town, can go at day, sunset or night to see city lights, takes 3 hrs, book online)
• Zipline DU The Wire 4 km south of Dubrovnik: superman-style suspension along coast (€60, daytime)
• Can take a ferry from Old Port Ploce Gate out to Lokrum Island (runs every 30 mins, takes 15 mins) to swim (water shoes for sharp rocks) or walk in forests, €30, buy at ferry 9-7 (20% off with Dubrovnik Pass), includes island entry fee, palace museum, botanical gardens, nude beaches marked FKK)
• Can take a panoramic 50 min boat tour around old town & around (but not on) Lokrum Island (€60, more expensive at sunset) – lots of vendors at Old Port
• After cruise: store luggage & see Dubrovnik or pick up car rental and head out (timing the pickup to be the same time as you want to return it at the Dubrovnik Airport later, as rentals are for 24 hour periods)
• If not picking up car yet, need to store luggage: pay to store at bus station in Gruz (but have to go back for it), or see if car rental would hold our luggage & visit by nearby Bellevue Beach or hang out at Dodo Beach Bar (opens at 10 am, €4-6 beer/wine, lunch) with luggage, or pay for luggage storage in Dubrovnik & wander old town, or Uber to coastal zipline with luggage & back
• Pick up rental car from Easy Rent (they deliver to Port Gruz for no extra cost) – don’t drive in Dubrovnik’s restricted access zone without a yellow card (€250 fine). Ensure you get a physical Green Card, to cross border if going to Montenegro (not digital), return car to Dubrovnik Airport near Cavtat, when flying home

Catvat/Zvekovica

• Catvat pronounced ‘TSAV-that’, beautiful resort town by airport, Top 3 Europe Best Destination (2021)
• Accommodations: air conditioning, 2 beds, 2 bathrooms (shower & tub), in-town, washer, patio & outdoor woodfire kitchen/lounge. https://www.vrbo.com/11808049ha €310 (2 nights for 4 people)
• Zvekovica is a small village near Dubrovnik Airport and Cavtat, known for its authentic local feel
• 5 min Uber (€8-€15) from Zvekovica, or drive rental car, or 45 min walk (very hilly)
• Supper:
  • Zvekovica pub: Konoba Tomislav, daily 8am-10pm, €10-15 big portions, friendly, steak sandwich on crispy lepinja (flatbread), stone oven pizza, cevapi grill sausage. Relaxed “real” Croatian
  • Tommy grocery store just outside Zvekovica on highway, or a small Studenac grocery in town
• Could do nearby zipline outside Dubrovnik (superman style along coast) for adventure
• Cavtat free parking: white lines = free parking, blue lines = pay zones. Check signs, spots are strictly enforced:
  • Parking (za darmo) – Kneza Domagoja 15 – small, free area near center
  • Šetalište Žal 3 – Near beach, free with 20-min walk along coast
  • Frankopanska ul. – Free parking spaces (check colours)
• Wander waterfront promenade palm trees & cafes
  • Picnic/snacks: small grocery Studanec in town
  • Promenade: lots of cafes (happy hours 4-6 or 6-8, check signs)
  • Waterfront Restaurant Ivan (happy hour 3-6pm 20% off) Ćevapi, stroganoff, grill (€12 to €22)
  • Caffe Bar Amor €5 wine sunset/harbor view
• Explore a 45-min loop: walk to end of promenade, take steep steps next to Church of our Lady of the Snow uphill 5-10 mins (follow ‘mauzolej’ signs) to white octagonal Mausoleum by Ivan Mestrovic (€4 to see interior sculptures, closed Sun, stones from island of Brac) for outdoor 360 views of harbour & old town, then walk back down & follow Kari’s Walking Path along coast, around hill (stop at small blue cave), leading to several small pebble beaches (bring swimsuit & cash for Beach Bar Little Star), carry on flat coastal path loop back old town
• In town, can see House Bukovac (famous painter) €7
• Ronald Brown Pathway is a challenging 10-km hike to the top of Stražišće with 700M elevation gain, scrambles, little shade (bring lots of water) but great view.
• Check Cavtat Events Calendar closer to arrival, for early-season concerts or “Klapa” promenade nights
• Cliipi (village 5 miles away) holds folk festivals Sunday mornings at 9, with dancing at 11:15 am
• Hidden Gem: Restaurant Ivan on the water. Delicious, formal but not fancy, 20% discount when ordering between 4-6 pm
• Other restaurant receommendations:
  • La Boheme Restaurant – great food and impeccable service
  • Club 21 – please don’t be put off by the name, restaurant is classy, serving excellent food, reasonably priced and staff were wonderful
  • Zino’s – Another really good restaurant
  • Winery Bataro – a local family run winery, sample wines and a light lunch
• Optional: sunset boat cruise from Cavtat marina nightly, or walk around the point to watch the sunset over the water

Dubrovnik Airport

• Return car rental (INA gas station near airport/Gruda) or Uber (€15), go early if claiming VAT with Customs (1 line for customs stamp & separate line for cash refund – at exchange counter)
• There are two DragonPass lounges (free passes with Scotiabank Infinite Passport Visa), max stay 4-hrs, similar layouts) for both International/Domestic, airside level 3, near Gates 31 & 32: Adriatic Lounge or Sky Lounge (both great views)

Croatia Travel Tips

Cash vs Card

• Cruisies often have €180 port fee for 2 people at are cash only, plus a cash welcome dinner, plus cashbar, plus €80-100 tips for cruise at end (cruise gives out an envelope). Islands are often cash-only: winery tastings & snacks (€15-50), activities on Islands, small restaurants, tips (5-10%)
• ATM/Bankomat: use official banks like Zagrebačka Banka (ZABA), Erste Bank or OTP, with an ATM outside so if card is eaten, can go in & ask); always avoid Euronet, Travelex, YourCash, Cashzone, generic Bankomat (18% fees)
• If your card has a debit has Mastercard/Visa symbol, it works anywhere – just take out less than your limit or it may refuse
• Europe uses ‘Chequing’ accounts (no option for ‘Savings’ account), choose local currency (decline conversion twice), both Croatia & Montenegro use Euros, main cities are tap credit card, islands are cash

Packing 

Health insurance proof (needed for cruise), cell USB-C cable/car mount, driver’s licence & physical credit card (for rental cars), water-shoes (rocky beaches), rashguard/snorkel gear (or use boat’s or buy at Kozum/beach ~€35), beach towel/scarf, waterproof cell case/bag, swimwear, sunhat, sunscreen, sunglasses, bug spray, gravol, layered clothes (14-15°C, evenings cool), reusable water bottles (tap water is safe), C-type adapters (2 round pegs), scarf (to cover shoulders in cathedral)s, Airalo Eurolink (30 days: €12, can top-up) or GigSky Visa (free 15 days, $8/week topup), download offline Google Maps & Google Translate languages, Uber/Bolt/Lyft Apps, Promet Bus app, Park Split app, floaties, power bank (allowed in carry-on), reusable grocery/beach bag, earplugs, raincoat/umbrella, good shoes/sandals, debit/credit/cash, e-book, headphones, mini-tissues (washrooms)

Croatia Entry Requirements

• Croatia (Schengen): In 2026, Canadians did not need a visa for stays up to 90 days within a 180-day period, with passport valid at least 3 months past entry. 
• New ESS – Canadians require Entry/Exit System (EES), mandatory by April 10, 2026 at Schengen’s first entry only (good for 3 years) – this slows down your 1st entry point significantly (long lines, up to 4 hrs, check layover time) – if transiting, may do ESS at destination. App works in Sweeden only, thus far.
  • Follow signs: “All Passports” or “Non-EU” immigration when deplaning in Germany/France.
  • Arrival Strategy: Try to be among first off plane to beat initial queue, use EES self-serve kiosks.
  • Biometric Registration: You must register your facial image and four fingerprints at an automated EES kiosk or with a border officer.
  • Passport Control: After registration, proceed to a border officer, to verify your digital record and be asked standard questions about your stay and funds.
  • No More Stamps: EES replaces physical passport stamps with digital record of your entry/exit.
  • Return flight (exit): biometrics are matched against existing record, generally a faster process.
• Schengen ETIAS authorization has been delayed until Q4 2026 (online advance application, €20).
• Montenegro (non-Schengen): do not need a visa for stays up to 90 days within a 180-day period, with passport valid at least 3 months past entry.

Rental Cars

• Most credit card insurance doesn’t cover other person’s car in an accident but all Croatia rentals should come with 3rd party liability included (confirm prior to buying); Driver must book with their card
• Most rental companies include CDW collision insurance – ask to decline or see if Credit Card ok with it?
• Rental may put entire replacement price of car on the card as a deposit
• Small cars best for narrow roads/parking – ensure 4-door, VW Polo has large trunk for luggage
• Both rentals will be one-way; Dubrovnik rental needs borders/ferries & green card as well
• Read fine print for one-way transfers, airports, ferries, borders, gas top-ups, insurance, etc.
• Technically need International Driver’s Licence, but they don’t require (only if Cyrillic licence can’t read) 
• Take photos/video of car before/after, check if gas/diesel, where e-brake/green card are before leaving
• Rental must include high-vis vests which are legally required for road breakdowns (both countries)
• Strict drinking rules: legal blood alcohol limit is 0.05 Croatia & 0.03 Montenegro
• Illegal to pass on the right; seatbelts & headlights must be on while driving
• Bring usb-c cable (cell maps), driver’s licence/international licence, physical credit card with pin
• Gas is green E, diesel is yellow/black B (same prices); costs around €1.25-1.50/l Croatia/Montenegro
• Road signs: red circle with X over blue means ‘no stopping’, diagonal slash means end of restriction
  • Warning Signs: white triangles with red borders (e.g., curves, animals, or falling rocks). In North America, these are typically yellow diamonds
  • Prohibitory Signs: These are white circles with red borders. For example, a “No Entry” sign is a red circle with a horizontal white bar—often without the words “Do Not Enter”
  • Mandatory Signs: These are blue circles that indicate an obligation, such as “Turn Right Only”
  • Priority Road: Yellow diamond with a white border: you have the right of way at upcoming intersections. A similar sign with a black diagonal slash means the priority road has ended.
• “Priority to the right” system: drivers must give way to vehicles at intersections approaching from right
• Mobile speed traps: oncoming drivers flash lights at you, it’s a signal that a police radar is ahead.
• Navigate by major town names in the direction of your destination, color of sign = road type (yellow is normal, blue is expressway, brown is a cultural/natural attraction. ‘Centar’/bullseye sign = town centre
• Parking: blue and white P signs. Street parking with blue lines require payment (€15-35/day). Yellow curb is restricted or handicap parking. Old town areas are pedestrian only
• Keep belongings in trunk to avoid break-in temptations & lock doors/windows
• Download Park Split app to see which lots have spaces/prices & Promet app for Omis bus
• Download GoogleMaps/Waze in advance. Download offline maps to reduce data use
• Download & setup Uber/Bolt in advance for quick local trips when not renting a car

Ubers/Taxis

• Uber/Bolt is available, cheaper, prevents being ripped off by airport cabbies 
• Download & setup apps with Scotiabank Visa (with ‘€’ currency turned on), prior to travel

Flight Delays

• EU Air Passenger Rights: any flight within EU & flights in/out of EU operated by European airlines, you’re entitled to compensation for: delays 3+ hours, flight cancelled/rescheduled/connection missed
• Scotiabank Passport Visa covers:
  • Flight Delays over 4 hours due to strike, quarantine, civil commotion, equipment failure, inclement weather, natural disaster, overbooking and hijacking/skyjacking. Delay insurance covers $500/ticketholder for necessary food, hotel, magazines, paperbacks, within 48 hrs of initial departure time (claim within 90 days, will reimburse portions that airlines don’t). Call immediately 1-800-263-0997 (In North America/Fongo) or overseas call collect 00-1-416-977-1552. Claim with statement from airline, receipts, within 90 days.
  • Delayed Luggage, for checked luggage only, more than 4 hours, up to $1K, essential items, purchased before bags returned & no later than 96 hrs after arrival, docs from airline carrier
  • Lost Luggage, up to $1K for all LLP travellers together, doesn’t cover money, camera, cosmetics, perfume, glasses/contacts, cellphones, art, electronics, etc.), reimbursed from your replacement purchases or cash value – call collect 00-1-416-977-1552 or in North America/Fongo 1-800-263-0997 within 90 days with docs from carrier

Cruise Bookings

• Book ahead for 1 double or 2 single beds configuration
• Check which cruises are for which ages (party week or non-party week)
• Travel Talk Small Boat Cruice is basic but nice, it includes: M/S Morena travel, accommodations (a/c & wifi in common area, deposit box, ensuite toilet/shower, hairdryer, 1L water/day, bedding, towel but not beach towel, basic snorkel), sun loungers, breakfast, lunch, swim spots, orientation walks, itinerary
• Before Trip: Buy extra water bottles, drinks & snacks at Split grocery store (closed holidays & Sundays)

Ziplines

• May need to book in advance if want to zipline in Dubrovnik (small group tour)
• Panorama Zipline (€50-55 includes a ride up from Old Town to Mt Srd, picturesque view of old town, can go at day, sunset or night to see city lights, takes 3 hrs – includes drive to top, book online)
• Zipline DU The Wire 4 km south of Dubrovnik: superman-style suspension along coast (€60, daytime)

Safety

• 911 is 112 (multilingual)
• Vaccinations: none required, but suggest Covid, Ducoral (2 weeks prior to travel), HepAB, Measles 
• If get sick (mild), go to a pharmacy rather than hospital, or ask at a Hotel for a nearby medical clinic
• Take a digital photo of passport id (can be asked for id), driver’s licence, glasses/medical prescriptions, tickets & credit cards (store physical ID in separate places to reduce losing them all in one theft)
• Translations: cell camera point at signs/menus (click on pop-up brackets) or google translate app
• Register trip abroad with Federal Gov’t: https://travel.gc.ca/travelling/registration 
• Canadian Government assessment of Croatia & Montenegro: tourist violent crime rate is low, but petty crime pickpocketing/purse snatching is common (commotion technique – 2^nd person steals), only carry 1-day of cash, avoid backpocket, purse crossbody with safety pin across zipper, don’t set cell on table
• Organized crime & cyber crime: avoid public wifi, use secure banking apps/private web window only
• Use ATMs located in public areas, outside/inside a bank or business, cover pin with hand
• Don’t use Debit to pay (tap Credit Cards are safer & have more recourse to cover it)
• Don’t run a tab, confirm price & pay to prevent overcharge (especially at nightclubs)
• Unexploded ordinances – main areas have all been cleared since war, but stay on paths
• Watch beach flags & weather for ocean conditions, never turn back on sea (rouge waves)
• Tap water is safe to drink – always bring/drink water – easy to dehydrate in heat with no shade
• Active seismic zone for earthquakes. Occasional wildfires/floods. Celebratory in-air gunfire
• Lost/stolen credit card: lock/cancel online/phone, file police report, request new card (Europe delivery)
• Lost/stolen passport: file police report, contact embassy (get appt to go in-person), insurance
  • Croatia Embassy is in Zagreb Croatia 385 (1) 488-1200 / 385 (1) 488-1238
  • Montenegro Embassy is in Belgrade Serbia 381 (11) 306-3000
  • Embassy emergency after hours any country: 1-613-996-8885
• Can use Ali’s Fongo VOIP account (transferable, 403-796-5254) for free North Americal calls (including 1-800 calls that don’t work in Europe) & has cheap international calls – purchase when needed), or use WhatsApp calls free call to another WhatsApp account user, Facetime or Messenger
• Pack light as must places in Europe don’t have elevators & cars are small (plus faster at airport)
• Always use washrooms at cafes & museums before exiting (clean & safe, next washroom could be far)
• If need directions, cab or restaurant recommendation, pop into any hotel to ask doorman/concierge
• Rotate shoes/sandals to avoid blister & pack waterproof/sweatproof bandaids
• Hot out? Pop into old stone church for cooling break, start day early & take midday siesta, ice cream
• Nude beaches are listed as FKK (FKK translates to: free body culture)
• Stone stairs and cobblestones can be extremely slippery, especially in rain, watch your step & hold rail

Shopping

• Almost all stores close Sundays (new law) & holidays – including Groceries! Buy food early! 
• Croatia is known for: red coral jewellery, filigree, lace, handmade goods & smoked foods 
• Women: pants/dresses: add 32 (size 10 is size 42); shoes: add 30-31 (size 9=39-40)
• Men: dress shirts: multiply by 2 & add 8 (15 = 38); jackets/suits: add 10; shoes: add 32-34
• If purchasing over €100 in a store on 1 receipt, ask store to fill out VAT form (21-25% value added tax) & show photo of passport. Go early to VAT Refunder/airport customs to process refund (or mail in)
• Buy liquids (alcohol/perfume) at duty free airport (sealed bag) & carry-on plane so no luggage issues 
• Canadian personal duty exemption: $800CAD purchases, 1.5L wine, 1.14L spirit (opaque bottles can have issues)

Restaurants

• Tipping is only places with wait-service (5-10%) – estimate 10% & round down to an even number), not expected but appreciated. Some machines don’t have tip – ask waiter to include ahead, or leave cash
• Some touristy restaurants include ‘service’ charges on bill (check for any auto-gratuities), or a “Couvert” (cover fee, €2-5) to sit at a table rather than take-out.
• Smoking is prohibited indoors, allowed outdoors (including patios)
• Head 1-2 blocks off main drag for higher quality food at lower prices (watch where the locals go)
• Most menus have: Italian pizza/pasta/seafood & Balkan grilled meats/phyllo pastries
• Traditional menus have: fresh octopus salad, black-ink risotto, stew meat with ajvar (spicy condiment)
• ‘Under the Bell’ Peka is a meat dish with a metal bell lid buried in hot coals to cook slowly (ask ahead)
• Seafood may be listed by weight (500 g is a large 1-person portion)
• Bakeries sell burek – grab & go phyllo-meat sticks (Mlinar is a popular bakery chain)
• Pizza Cut = pizza by the slice windows, & grocery stores often make sandwiches for you in deli
• Prust = airdried ham (prosciutto), Mixed salad is like a coleslaw, Green salad is just lettuce.
• Konoba = tavern, can ask server if bones can be removed from a whole fish for you, shrimp has shells
• Korcula island is best for wineries – Posip white wine, or speciality Grk (Greek) grapes only grown around Lumbarda. Red wines are sometimes called ‘black’ wines. Hvar wines are fruity. 
• Wine bottle: Stolno = table wine, Kvalitento = quality, Vrhunsko = top-quality, Barrique = barrel age 
• ‘Dalmatians-style’ is lots of olive oil, parsley & garlic
• Sladoled = ice cream, located everywhere, lots of unique flavours
• Ask for tap water ‘Voda iz slavine’, or a Spritzer (wine with mineral water) 

Language 

• Most people speak English, but can use Google Translate (download languages ahead) & cell camera translate
• ‘J’ sounds like a ‘y’, C sounds like ‘ts in bats’, č sounds like ‘ch’, š sounds like ‘sh’, ž sounds like ‘zh’
• Hi/Bye = bok (bohk), Hello = dobar dan, Please/Welcome = molim (moh-leem), Thanks = hvala (hvah-lah), Sorry = oprpsyite (oh-proh-stee-teh), No Problem = nema problema, Good = dobro
• Toilet = vece (veht-she), Women = Zenski, Men = Muski
• Wine = vino, Beer = pivo, Coffee = kava, Tap water = Voda od slavine, glass = casa, bottle = boca
• Trg = town square, Ulica = road, Cesta = avenue, Autocesta = highway, Most = bridge, Otok = island, Trajekt = ferry, Jadran = Adriatic
• Often hear: Moze (moh-zheh) = ok/can do; Ajde (eye-deh) = let’s go

Travel Tips 

• Always use washrooms at sites before exiting (clean!) – if have a pass, can pop in just for washroom 
• Know your time-change for calling home & jetlag (1 day per 1 hour time difference, to recover)
• Temperatures in May-June are 21-25°C highs & 14-18°C lows. Water temp: 18-21°C
• Electricity is 220 Watts in both Croatia & Montenegro, bring adapters with 2 round prongs
• Coins: 10, 20, 50 cents have Nikola Tesla on them, €1 has a mink (Kuna) & €2 has checkerboard
• Paper maps are usually free at Tourist Info offices, or download offline Google Maps ahead
• See most important sites first, in case of unexpected closures
• Go to sites early/late to avoid crowds (siesta when sites busy) – mid-morning is worst & can making traveling exhausting. If arrive too late, sites have ‘last entry 1 hr prior to close’ & usher tourists out 
• Look up scheduled cruise arrivals at Split & Dubrovnik, to see when/how many tourists arriving
• Peak season is July-Aug: crowded, hot, expensive
• Very few elevators, pack light. Floor 2 is North American Floor 3 (ground is floor 0). 
• Shower quickly: hot water tanks are small. Pull-cord by tub is for emergency if fall, not clothesline
• On rainy days, may smell faint sewer odor due to very old city septic tanks, not harmful
• Use Messager, Facetime, Fongo, Skype, What’s App for calling. What’s App is popular in Europe
• How to call Canada from Croatia: instructions (different for cell or landline)
• Back up your cell to cloud before travelling & enable Find My Phone, in case it is lost
• Numbers: comas are decimal points, decimals are commas ($1.50 = €1,50, a thousand is 1.000)
• Count with thumb first (if hold up pointer finger for 1, they might give you 2 items)
• Croatians are very relaxed: “Croatian Shrug” = don’t know/don’t care (not rude, just a relaxed culture