Senlis & Chantilly, France

Old world charm with cobblestone lanes in Senlis and Chantilly in France.

Stay in the most picturesque little French village, Senlis, a historic medieval royal town, located just a short 25-min coach bus ride north of the CDG airport in Paris, and take a side day-trip to idyllic Chantilly. Out of the Paris hussle-bussle and not on the main tourist radar – a real hidden gem!

Photo summary of Senlis and Chantilly - castle walls, chateaus, old town streets

Senlis, pronounced ‘sawn-LEASE’, is famous for its 2,000-year history and as the site where Hugh Capet was elected King of France in 987. Its quiet cobblestone streets, awe-inspiring cathedrals and walkable ancient walls, will charm you to your soul, as you relax, stroll and eat your way through this historic old town.

Chateau de Chantilly, pronounced ‘shah-toe duh shahn-tee-yee’, is pure opulence and extravagance – it will take your breath away! Located just a short bus ride form Senlis, it makes a perfect & convenient day-trip.

Arrival: Charles de Gaulle Airport (Paris)

  • Paris has two airports – Charles de Gaulle (Airport code CDG) is the most common for international flights – Canadians usually arrive in Terminal 2C (Air Canada or WestJet), or 2E (Air France) 
  • EU Entry/Exit System (ESS) has self-serve kiosks for your passport, fingerprints & facial recognition scans (done the first time you enter, required once every 3 years), usually takes 30 mins, but it can take up to 4 hours
  • CDG Transport Map: Go from Terminal 2 to Bus 630 at Roissypôle (‘Gare Routiere’ Bus Station between terminal 2 & terminal 3) Quai F1 (outdoor platform F1) – take the free airport train (the CDGVAL, runs every 4 mins) transport takes 4-12 mins, or walk direct 32 mins
  • Bus timetable N°630
  • Use Oise Mobilite App (if credit card won’t load in Canada, you can add it in once you are in Europe) or ask for ‘deux billets de bus pour Senlis’: €2 each – there is also bus terminal onsite, where you can talk to a person to confirm the trip, in English, for Bus 630 to Senlis Oise (some buses also have credit card tap)
  • Take the suburban coat Bus Line 630 (travel network Réseau Oise) towards Creil to Gare Routiere de Senlis (25 mins) & walk 8 mins to old town (or Uber if you have a lot of luggage – I always recommend taking just carry-on)

Accommodations

We stayed in the beautiful Old Stone Airbnb on Rue Vieille de Paris, Senlis, Hauts-de-France 60300. Former turn-of-the-century pub with stone walls & exposed beams, in heart of old town. Spacious, very quiet, next to a little river, ideal place to rest and enjoy the sun. Even though there was heat-wave on, it stayed cool, even though it didn’t have A/C. Included wifi, shower, washer, double bed & another single loft bed, French-press coffee, lock-box entry, main floor entrance (don’t have to haul luggage up stairs!).

Day 1 – Senlis

  • After you have checked in to your accommodations, get outdoors for sunlight & movement in, to help with jetlag
  • Stop at the Tourist Info office by the cathedral/castle (10-12:30/2-6pm, closed Mon) for free town walk info with maps/QR audio. Book a guided walk, a cellar light show, or arena tour. See what special events are on, such as the annual National Museum Night. Pick up maps/info on Chantilly here, as well
  • Grab some essential groceries (many stores close Sun) for coffee, quick breakfasts & snacks: Outdoor Market is on Tues & Fri mornings (8-12), or Intermarche Express is open 8-8 (great cheese & wine charcuterie selections)
  • Wander old town, as it lights up in the evening, and savour the magic

Supper spots near AirBnb

When you’re jetlagged, exhausted from travel, and starved, you need a place to eat – and fast!

  • Cappadoce Kebab is nearby for quick meal for €6 burger/fries, €7 sandwich kebab, €11 plates
  • Casa Italia has truffle pasta & pizzas €12-15
  • Le Commerce Brasserie has Happy Hour 7-9 on weekdays
  • Brasserie de Senlis has craft beers, 4-10 Weds-Fri & 2-11 Sat, 10 min walk, outdoor patio, casual

Day 2 – Senlis

  • Break out the official ‘Senlis Walk Guide’ (QR audio) with 3 historic circuits, provided online or from Senlis Tourist Office:
    • On Green Tour A in TI’s official guide, explore Old Town & walk atmospheric Rue de la Treille with Gallo-Romaine du Mont-Auban ancient wall (3rd Century) sections (can’t go on top).
    • Blue Tour B explores the Ramparts (13th-century, Augustomagus, 10 am–6 pm) & walk up on top: Les escaliers du Rempart de l’Escalade and St Vincent’s Abbey Rampart & follow a tranquil path along Nonette River (Rem Bellevue, Rem = Rempart) – look for “Sentier du rû de la Nonette” signs.
    • Yellow Tour C for Gallo-Roman arena (1st century gladiators, closed except official TI group tour).
  • Sites: Senlis is the former Royal Capital – explore medieval fortifications (13th & 16th century) ramparts, Gothic art Notre-Dame cathedral, Royal chapel (closed except concerts), old St Peter’s Church (opens for events), castle chateau grounds, new cellars interactive show (ask at TI), royal castle park, Museum of Art  & Archeology, St Maurice Priory, Librairie Ancienne La Perle Rare (antiquarian bookshop of rare paper treasures, vintage postcards, art), old rail walking paths (by bus station), Monument to Victory & Peace.
  • 12:00 pm Lunch (Book online ahead): Le Gril des Barbares: 13-century vault cellar steps to cathedral
    • Lunch: 12–2 PM; Dinner: 7–10:30 PM; Closed on Sun/Mon. 
    • Reservations: Popular spot – book 2 weeks in advance
    • Lunch Prix Fixe: Approximately €19 – €25 for a multi-course meal
    • Dinner is much more expensive: Costs range from €37 up to €120 for all-inclusive “Temptation” menus
    • Watch the Stairs: Accessed via narrow spiral staircase—mind your head, steep descent.
    • French Doneness: Steaks are often served rare by default. If you prefer medium, order “à point”.
  • 2:30-4 pm: Senlis Sat Walking Tour: Pre-booking recommended (limited numbers for English), 1.5 hrs, €6 tickets, tickets & departure (2:30 p.m. or sometimes 4:30 pm) at Senlis TI, place du Parvis Notre-Dame
  • European Museum Night (Nuit des Musées): this annual event has many museums open for free, from 4 or 6 pm until midnight. Often special events, light displays, storytelling tours, performances:
  • 4-11 pm: Museum of Art & Archaeology Senlis Art museum Pl. Notre- Dame (by TI) votive tablets · vaulted ceilings · roman foundations, former Episcopal Palace.
  • Musée de la Vénerie was closed for major renovations and should re-open 2027, with its collections partially moved to the Musée d’Art et d’Archéologie in the interim: hunting museum on grounds of Royal Castle, unique collection of hunting art
  • 6-10 pm: Musée des Spahis Senlis Pl. du Parv. Notre Dame, in same building as Tourist Office (Place de l’Ancien Marché). Uniforms, specialized military museum dedicated to North African cavalry units (usually participates in free annual museum night). 
  • Visit “New Cellars” interactive show (check Tourist Info Office for times).
  • Cross the square to the Parc et Vestiges du Château Royal. Wander ruins of royal castle where Hugh Capet was elected King of France. The park and royal castle ruins are central to the night’s atmospheric walk between sites.
  • Senlis Nighttime Stroll: At sunset, walk down Rue de la Treille and along the Gallo-Roman walls. These ancient ramparts and narrow cobblestone streets are subtly illuminated, creating a stunning atmosphere. Return to Cathédrale Notre-Dame to see its Gothic spire light up the dark.

Day 3 – Chantilly Daytrip

Transportation to Chantilly

  • Chantilly-Senlis Tourist Office and online brochures have walking routes/info in both towns
  • If you’re in town during the outdoor Flower Show, most visitors go straight to the gardens in the morning, so tour indoor galleries first, to beat the crowds
  • Bus Line 645 €2 to Chantilly (starts running at 7am, last bus back 8:55 pm – check timetables online as they change based on the season)
  • Head out from Senlis to Chantilly – 7:52, 8:10, 8:52, 9:54, 11:45 am / back to Senlis – 6:29, 6:44, 7:30, 7:45, 8:18 & 9 pm).
  • Bus runs from Senlis Gare, Ecole Notre Dame, or Arenas (20 min bus, can use Rome2Rio to search times; book ticket on app or pay driver cash – some buses take credit card tap)

Chantilly Itinerary

  • Breakfast: at Senlis open air market Fri/Tues, 8-12 (Places de la Halle) & pastries at Frères et Artisans, or take bus 2 stops past Chateau Stables to Mairie, to go to Chantilly outdoor market (Auchan Supermarché, chocolat & pastry shop nearby too) – 10 min walk from Place Omer Vallon to Chateau, or take free DUC shuttle – Google transit map; times posted at Chateau
  • 9:54 am: bus 645 to Chantilly N Dame Musee Cheval-Chateau (horse museum): 7-min walk to Chateau 
  • Download English Chateau app in advance (800 paintings – 2nd largest collection in France after Louvre, antique books, calm gardens, waterfront & stables)
  • 10:30-11 am Chateau entry (pre-book online with library entry): to Conde Gallery (15-30 min leeway). Itinerary starts: Chateau main gallery (on right from entry, through dining room), work counter-clockwise through smaller art rooms, library (pre-book €3 illuminated Book of Hours circ 1460), gold-leaf suites & apartments, exit through the giftshop (2-3 hrs)
  • Washrooms: stables & entrance to Chateau
  • Lunch: head to Stables for an inexpensive café (indoor/outdoor) €7-12 hot food (croque-monsieur, savoury tarts & quiches, watermelon salad; dessert: chou à la crème Chantilly cream puff, or apple tart). Chateau Restaurant lunch €20/supper €22-30; or Hameau grounds €18-25 – quite far to walk though
  • Grande Ecuries are Chateau-esk stables (5-min walk – turn right from Chateau gate, included in ticket), museum has 15 rooms with carousel horses, paintings & history (1-1.5 hrs). 
  • 2:15 pm: Stables Demo (2:30 pm: arrive min 15 mins early!), opulent domed ring, 30 min (don’t miss!)
  • Free DUC buses (closed Sun) connect Chateau-town-train (schedule posted at Chateau or on Google maps)
  • Before 5 pm: Le Pavillion de Manse in-town mechanical museum of Chateau fountain pumps (free DUC shuttle to bus stop Place Omer Vallon & 5 min walk – Google transit map) or 20 min walk or Uber, 2-6 pm (last entry 5 pm, quiet 3 pm on), closed Mon-Tues, €7 self guided tour (1 hr), pay at door (not available in advance)
  • Optional: Chantilly Lace Museum 3 min walk from manse museum, €5, Fri-Sun 2-6 pm (free on ‘museum night’)
  • Walk back through Chantilly town & compile a picnic: La Passion du Chocolat (ask about stolen pink diamond story, open 9-1 & 2:30-7pm, closed Mon-Tues), Boulangerie La Galop’pain baguette praline or tiramisu (6:30 am – 8 pm) & Auchan Supermarché for picnic supper
  • Take free DUC shuttle or walk back to Gardens behind chateau: walk along ponds, turn right along canal following le Hameau signs to a thatched roof mini-hamlet & tea cafe (houses are beautifully decorated inside), watch for sheep & kangaroos. Can take a Chantilly cream making course here (check online for times). The walk to the Hameau is quite far – best enjoyed in cool quiet of evening
  • Supper: picnic at tables in English Garden under trees, near playground, Hamlet (gardens close 8 pm)
  • Stables Museum: if missed the stables museum earlier, it’s open to 8 pm (catch 8:18/9 pm bus back to Senlis at stables) 
  • Last Bus: Bus Line 645 – be sure to arrive early for the 8:18 or 8:55 pm bus back to Senlis (confirm online!)
  • Sights in Chantilly are closed Tues, shops close Mon
  • Timing Tips: Quieter on weekdays (Sunday is busiest)
    • ‘Museum Night’ discount is €11 for 7-10 pm with French poetry readings/Chantilly cream taste, but bus stops running by 9 pm (Uber back would be €25-35).
    • Chateau de Chantilly is open 10-6, gardens until 8 pm, stables until 8 pm (check online for seasonal hours). Closed Tues. €21 entry timestamp for Chateau (rest of ticket is all day, includes gardens, horse museum, stables, dressage horse 2:30 pm demo – no photos in dome), €26 2-day ticket, €7-9 guided (in French) tours, special event tickets.
    • Skippable: 1-hr Spectacle horse show Thurs/Sun at 2:30 pm €24 or combo chateau €30 (watch free demo instead)
    • Plant Days (Journees des Plantes) at Château de Chantilly make the gardens come to life: quietest 10 am opening or after 4:30 pm, busiest on Sat/Sun. Grounds open late until 7 PM during festival. Incredible floral displays

Day 4 – Senlis

  • Most grocery stores close Sundays, but the Intermarché EXPRESS Senlis stays open 9-8 Sun, and Bakeries close 1 pm on Sundays. 
  • Savour fresh pastries at Frères et Artisans (Place de la Halle): Chausson aux pommes (apple turnover) or signature sourdough baguette. Price: €1.50-4, in the heart of old town.
  • Nature Stroll: walk the old railway walking paths by bus station. Or walk 15 mins north to Parc Ecologique ponds.
  • Do any walking tours or sites missed earlier, or take a relax day of wandering/eating/reading. 
  • Visit the “New Cellars” interactive show (check Tourist Info Office for times). Immersive light/sound history of town’s foundations. Entry: €6 museum/show. 10 AM–1 PM & 2–6 PM.
  • Picnic Lunch: grab sandwich/treats at a bakery, to eat in the atmospheric castle ruins, or at Square Jean-Jérôme Adam for a view of the Cathedral spire.
  • Check in for flight/travel plans, and double-check bus schedules.
  • 1-3 pm: town is very quiet as locals are at long-lunch. This is the best time for photography of empty cobblestone streets. Enjoy the quiet: relaxing wander, read a book, or savour a nap.
  • 3 pm: French Teatime (L’Heure du Goûter, 3-5 pm). Le Comptoir Senlisien: Set in a charming alley, features a Gothic vaulted cellar & outdoor terrace built into ancient town walls. Order: hot chocolate with Chantilly cream & slice of homemade tart. €8-12 (also serves lunch). 10:30 AM – 6:30 PM, closed Mon (arrive by 3 pm to beat the rush). If it is raining, you can still sit outside—terrace tables are recessed into historic stone walls, providing natural shelter. Cellars downstairs are cool on a hot day – mind your head on spiral stairs.
  • Supper (or lunch): Le Tibet Restaurant spécialités asiatiques: €10-20, Boeuf Momo (Tibetan dumplings) or warming Noodle Soup. Tiny, family-run, quiet courtyard. 12-2:30 & 7-10:30 pm. Same prices for lunch or supper
  • Or head to Intermarché Express, for a charcuterie & wine evening at Airbnb.

Departure

  • For flights, leave early, as CDG Airport can take a lot of time, especially if you’re leaving on a holiday or weekend
  • From CDG, you can fly almost anywhere, or you can take the RER B Train directly into Paris (30-45 mins)
  • 630 bus at Gare to CDG Rossypole Terminal 3 (takes 40 mins), go early & check when the next bus is, in case you miss the first one
  • Take Suburban Bus Line 630 towards Tremblay-en-France (€2 on board, 40 mins) from Gare Routiere De Senlis to CDG Roissy Pole Quai F1 (CDG bus station – walk 32 mins or take free airport train 5-8 mins for 2 stops from Rossypole to main Terminal 2, runs every 5 mins). Bus 630 is a coach bus with luggage storage underneath & comfy seats
  • Eating at Airport:
    • If you have DragonPass free lounge passes: use CDG Salon Paris Lounge in Terminal 2C (Non-Schengen)
    • Terminal 2D has an Exit-time lounge, if you have free passes (not covered by Dragon Pass) (or €95 which is not worth it)
    • Brioche Dorée: buttery croissants, affordable pastries €2.50-4, full lunch €11-14, some seating
    • Paul Bakery: world-famous family bakery, serves a full lunch (sandwich + drink + dessert) €12-16, no seating but can eat at gate

Travel Prep

Pack 

Health insurance, cell USB-C cable, driver’s licence ID, credit card (try a no-foreign-fee visa card that comes with insurance and free lounge passes), hat, sunscreen, sunglasses, layered clothes (elegant wrap/scarf for cathedrals/evening cool), water bottles (tap water is safe), C-type adapters (2 round pegs), chargers, cables (cell, watch, e-reader, headphones), Airalo Eurolink (30 days: €12, can top-up), Museum Pass QR, download offline Google maps & translate, Uber/Bolt/FreeNow/BlablaCar Apps, e-books, download Rick Steeves audio guides & bring headphones (share for walking tours?), power bank (allowed in carry-on), reusable grocery bag/baggies, earplugs, shared photos of all docs, electronic passport photo copies, insurance, raincoat/umbrella, good shoes/sandals, debit/credit/cash, mini-tissues (washrooms).

Entry Requirements

  • France is Schengen: Canadians do not need a visa for stays up to 90 days within a 180-day period, with passport valid at least 3 months past entry. 
  • ESS – Canadians require Entry/Exit System (EES), mandatory by April 10, 2026 at Schengen’s first entry only (good for 3 years) – this slows down your 1st entry point significantly (long lines, up to 4 hrs, check layover time) – if transiting, may do ESS at destination.
    • Follow signs: “All Passports” or “Non-EU” immigration when deplaning in Germany/France.
    • Arrival Strategy: Try to be among first off plane to beat initial queue, use EES self-serve kiosks.
    • Biometric Registration: You must register your facial image and four fingerprints at an automated EES kiosk or with a border officer.
    • Passport Control: After registration, proceed to a border officer, to verify your digital record and be asked standard questions about your stay and funds.
    • No More Stamps: EES replaces physical passport stamps with digital record of your entry/exit.
    • Return flight (exit): biometrics are matched against existing record, generally a faster process.
  • Schengen ETIAS authorization (online advance application, €20).
  • Paris has 2 major Airports: CDG/Orly – connecting flights: check airports, as they aren’t closeby!

Ubers/Taxis

  • Uber/Bolt is available, cheaper, prevents being ripped off by Taxis. Download and setup apps in advance.
  • If you need a cab, use FreeNow app to book one securely (prices shown up-front & pay on credit card).
  • BlablaCar is a cheap car-pool (split gas & tolls), but it depends if someone is going that direction.

Flight Delays

  • EU Air Passenger Rights: any flight within EU & flights in/out of EU operated by European airlines, you’re entitled to compensation for: delays 3+ hours, flight cancelled/rescheduled/connection missed
  • Scotiabank Passport Visa covers:
    • Flight Delays over 4 hours due to strike, quarantine, civil commotion, equipment failure, inclement weather, natural disaster, overbooking and hijacking/skyjacking. Delay insurance covers $500/ticketholder for necessary food, hotel, magazines, paperbacks, within 48 hrs of initial departure time (claim within 90 days, will reimburse portions that airlines don’t). Call immediately 1-800-263-0997 (In North America/Fongo) or overseas call collect 00-1-416-977-1552. Claim with statement from airline, receipts, within 90 days.
    • Delayed Luggage, for checked luggage only, more than 4 hours, up to $1K, essential items, purchased before bags returned & no later than 96 hrs after arrival, docs from airline carrier
    • Lost Luggage, up to $1K for all LLP travellers together, doesn’t cover money, camera, cosmetics, perfume, glasses/contacts, cellphones, art, electronics, etc.), reimbursed from your replacement purchases or cash value – call collect 00-1-416-977-1552 or in North America/Fongo 1-800-263-0997 within 90 days with docs from carrier

Safety

  • 911 is 112 (multilingual), carry ID (can be asked for it)
  • Vaccinations: none required, but suggest Covid, Ducoral (2 weeks prior to travel), HepAB, Measles 
  • If get sick (mild), go to a pharmacy rather than hospital, or ask at a Hotel for a nearby medical clinic
  • SOS Medicinas does Dr house calls, or SOS Dentist does emergency dental (call Health Insurance 1st)
  • Take a digital photo of passport id (can be asked for id), driver’s licence, glasses/medical prescriptions, tickets & credit cards (store physical ID in separate places to reduce losing them all in one theft)
  • Translations: cell camera point at signs/menus (click on pop-up brackets) or google translate app
  • Register trip abroad with Canadian Federal Government: https://travel.gc.ca/travelling/registration 
  • Canadian Government assessment of France: tourist violent crime rate is low, but petty crime pickpocketing/purse snatching is very common (commotion technique while 2nd person steals or ask you to hold something & says you’ve bought it – have to be rude & insistent), only carry 1-day of cash, avoid backpocket, purse crossbody with safety pin across zipper, don’t set cell on table
  • Bomb threats, strikes, demonstrations, seasonal flooding. Illegal taxis – only use apps (Uber, etc.)
  • Organized crime & cyber crime: avoid public wifi (wee-fee), use secure banking apps/private web only
  • Use ATMs located in public areas, outside/inside a bank or business, cover pin with hand
  • Don’t use Debit to pay (tap Credit Cards are safer & have more recourse to cover it)
  • Don’t run a tab, confirm price & pay to prevent overcharge (especially at nightclubs)
  • Tap water is safe to drink – always bring/drink water – easy to dehydrate in heat with no shade, use app to find free water spots all around Paris
  • Lost/stolen credit card: lock/cancel online/phone, file police report, request new card (Europe delivery)
  • Lost/stolen passport: file police report, contact Canadian Embassy (call for appointment to go in-person), and your insurance company:
  • Use WhatsApp calls free call to another WhatsApp account user, Facetime or Messenger
  • Pack light as most places in Europe don’t have elevators & cars are small (plus faster at airport)
  • Always use washrooms at cafes & museums before exiting (clean & safe, next washroom could be far)
  • If need directions, cab or restaurant recommendation, pop into any hotel to ask doorman/concierge
  • Rotate shoes/sandals to avoid blister & pack waterproof/sweatproof bandaids
  • Hot out? Pop into old stone church for cooling break, start day early & take midday siesta, ice cream
  • Stone stairs and cobblestones can be extremely slippery, especially in rain, watch your step & hold rail

Cash/Credit 

  • Nearly everything is ‘tap’ credit cards now (can use Apple pay, except at Car Rentals and Hotels – must have a physical credit card). Euro is roughly 1.5x price for CAD.
  • Carry cash for flea markets & extra tips (€1-2).
  • Restaurants & cafes include 15% tip automatically, but can rounding up a Euro or two.
  • ATM/Bankomat: use official banks (use ATM outside so if card is eaten, can go in & ask), avoid Euronet, Travelex, YourCash, Cashzone, generic Bankomat (18% extra fees)
  • If debit card has Mastercard/Visa symbol, it works anywhere, take out less than limit or it may refuse
  • Europe uses ‘Chequing’ accounts (no option for Savings account), choose local currency (decline conversion twice).

Restaurants

  • Tipping is automatically included (15%, included in food prices, not a separate line item) – small extra is not expected but appreciated if they are exceptional. Some machines don’t have tip – ask waiter to include ahead, or leave cash (€1-2). Waiters make a fair living wage (similar to teacher’s wages)
  • Head 1-2 blocks off main drag for higher quality food at lower prices (watch where the locals go)
  • Ask for tap water ‘Une carafe d’eau, s’il vousplaît (oon kah-rahf doh) – free & normal to ask for.
  • Breakfast: buy fruit at a grocer, pick up a pastry & make coffee at the apartment
  • Ask for ‘un tartine’ (ewn tart-een) at a café or bakery, for a quick snack: baguette with butter & jam
  • Cafes offer quick cheap food, or extended coffees watching the world go by outdoors (no time limits)
  • Restaurants have 2-3 hours dinners (seatings: 7-10pm) and 1-2 hour lunches (seatings: 12-1:30 pm). 
  • Waiters aren’t rude, they’re efficient, quick & discreet. If you need something, make eye contact, or raise your hand and say S’il vous plat (this will also get the bill ‘l’addition’ – they won’t bring it until you indicate you’re ready – if you’re in a hurry, ask when they clear your plates).
  • Indoors is smoke-free. Outdoors is fair game for smokers.
  • At brasseries or cafes, salads or desserts can be shared (but not mains), or can order a small amount. They’re open all day (service continu). Price lists are required by law – lower ‘comptoir’ prices are eating at a counter, ‘salle’ is a table. Empty tables – seat yourself & can get just a drink, tables set with a placemat & cutlery – ask to be seated for a meal. Salad, crepe or croque monsieur are cheap & tasty.  
  • Plat du jour (plate of the day), menu or formule are usually 2-4 courses & is often a good deal.
  • Try an Aperitif of Kir (keer) to start supper or Digestif of Armagnac (brandy) or Calvados (apple brandy) 
  • Tap water: Une carafe d’eau, s’il vous plaît (oon kah-rahf doh) – free & perfectly normal to ask for.
  • Wine: vin (van): Vin rouge (van roozh) / Vin blanc (van blahn) / Vin rosé (van ro-zay)
  • A glass: Un verre (un vair): “A glass of red wine, please”: Un verre de vin rouge, s’il vous plaît.
  • Pitcher/carafe: Une carafe (oon kah-rahf) de vin de tah-bluh rouge, s’il vous plait) table wine, 25cl-50cl.
  • Bread is free, but doesn’t come with butter. Sauces: white milk (bechamel), brown veal (espagnole), white stock (velouté), yellow egg (hollandaise), red (tomate).
  • Cheese course with whole cheeses, keep shape of cheese (slice from side, or wedge from round).
  • Café Gourmand is a small sampling of desserts with an espresso.
  • Drinks aren’t served with ice. Sizes are non-standard – indicate with a hand measurement or say the size, 25/33/50 cl or pint, or they may bring a €15 supersize. Limonade is 7-up. Milk is thought to cause indigestion as the day progresses: more milky at breakfast, small milk mid-day, no milk in evenings.
  • Restaurants are to indulge in, over many hours, only open for a set time. Most suppers start at 7 pm & are busiest at 9 pm. Many restaurants close Sun/Mon.
  • Speak quietly at meal, put your cell away, enjoy.
  • An ‘entrée’ is a starter, not a main. Main is ‘plat principal’. If you ask for a ‘menu’, you’ll get the fixed price meal, not a menu (ask for ‘a la carte’ to see the menu). If you put up your pointer finger for 1, you may get 2, as European counting starts at the thumb. De la maison is ‘of the house’ or a specialty.
  • One person can order the full menu, while the other order just a plat (main), then share the starter/desserts (but not share the main).
  • Skip organ meats: tripe, rognons, andouillette. Don’t share mains, order separate.
  • Pro Tip: Standing at counter to drink your coffee is often significantly fast & cheaper than sitting at a table, if you’re in a hurry.

Picnics

  • Grab a cheap picnic of to-go salads, sandwiches, quiche, crepe (rhymes with step) – sweet (sucre), savoury (salee) or hearty buckwheat (galette), at a bakery, charcutier, grocer or market near a park, to enjoy it alfresco. Wine, cheese, baguette, dessert, go!
  • Buy picnics early, as small shops close at 1-2 pm. Start with Bonjour monsieur/madame, point to what you want & say S’il vous plait (add Tranche if you’d like it sliced) & Merci. Say Au revoir to leave.
  • Wineries can open bottles, delis can provide napkins or forks (just ask).
  • Sandwiches come with: beurre (butter), crudites (vegetables), a l’Italienne (hot panini), a la Provençale (marinated pepper, tomato, eggplant), ham (jambon), chicken (poulet) or tuna (thon). 

Language 

  • Most people speak English; use Google Translate (download French) & cell camera to translate
  • J sounds like ‘z’, consonants/plurals at word end are dropped, unless next word starts with vowel or h.
  • In France, always start every interaction with:
  1. Hello: Bonjour (bohn-zhoor) — even at fast-food counter, skipping this is considered very rude.
  2. Thank you: Merci (mair-see)
  3. Goodbye: Au revoir (oh ruh-vwahr)
  • Hi/Bye: Salut, Hello = Bonjour, Please = S’il vous plaît, Thanks = merci, Sorry = pardon, Good = bien 
  • Tap water: Une carafe d’eau, s’il vous plaît (oon kah-rahf doh) – free & perfectly normal to ask for.
  • Wine: vin (van): Vin rouge (van roozh) / Vin blanc (van blahn) / Vin rosé (van ro-zay)
  • A glass: Un verre (un vair): “A glass of red wine, please”: Un verre de vin rouge, s’il vous plaît.
  • A pitcher/carafe: Une carafe (oon kah-rahf) — Great for a budget-friendly lunch; usually 25cl or 50cl.
  • Beer: bière (bee-air): A pint: Une pinte (oon pahnt) usually 50cl, Small: Un demi (un duh-mee) 25cl.
  • Coffee: Un café allongé (uhn kah-fay ah-lohn-zhay)/un café américain, Decaf: Un déca. Café: espresso. 
  • I would like…: Je voudrais… (zhuh voo-dray), Bill/check: L’addition (lah-dee-syohn)
  • Daily special: Le plat du jour (luh plah doo zhoor) — Usually the best value.
  • Set menu: Une formule (oon for-mool) — Usually a combo like “Main + Drink.”
  • Breakfast: Petite déjeuner, Lunch: Le déjeuner (luh day-zhuh-nay), Supper: Le dîner (luh dee-nay)
  • Appetizer: Entrée (on-tray) — Careful: In France, this is the starter, not the main!
  • Main course: Plat (plah), Side dish: Accompagnement (ah-kohm-pahn-yah-mon)
  • Chicken: Poulet (poo-lay, Beef: Bœuf (buff), Fish: Poisson (pwah-sohn), Vegetables: Légumes (lay-goom), Fries: Frites (freet), Eggs: Œufs (uh), Cheese: Fromage (fro-mahzh)
  • Toilets? Où sont les toilettes? (oo sohn lay twah-let); Women = femme, Men = homme (h is silent)
  • Exit: Sortie (sor-tee), entrance: entrée (on-tray)
  • How much is it? Combien? (kohm-byun), Credit Card: Carte, Cash: Espèces (es-pess)
  • Left / Right: À gauche (ah gohsh) / À droite (ah drwaht), Straight ahead: Tout droit (too drwah)
  • Do you speak English? : Parlez-vous anglais ? (par-lay voo ohn-glay)
  • I don’t understand: Je ne comprends pas (zhuh nuh kohm-prohn pah)

Shopping

  • Many stores close Sun, or close by noon Sun. Buy groceries by Sat, or go to a larger store/department. 
  • Smaller shops also close for lunch 12-2 pm.
  • Women: pants/dresses: add 32 (size 10 is size 42); shoes: add 30-31 (size 9=39-40)
  • Men: dress shirts: multiply by 2 & add 8 (15 = 38); jackets/suits: add 10; shoes: add 32-34
  • If purchasing over €175 in a store on 1 receipt, ask store to fill out VAT form (20% value added tax) & show photo of passport. Go early to VAT Refunder/airport customs to process refund (or mail in)
  • Buy liquids (alcohol/perfume) at duty free airport (sealed bag) & carry-on plane so no luggage issues 
  • Canadian personal duty exemption: $800CAD purchases, 1.5L wine, 1.14L spirit (opaque bottles can have issues)

Travel Tips 

  • Always use washrooms at sites before exiting (clean!) – if have a pass, can pop in just for washroom 
  • Pack power bars with you – saves a hangry meltdown!
  • Temperatures in May-June (best time to travel) are 18-24°C highs & 7-14°C lows. 15 hours sunlight/day. Rain is frequent but often short-lived, characterized by abrupt showers rather than all-day drizzles
  • Electricity is 220 Watts in France, bring adapters with 2 round prongs
  • Paper maps are usually free at Tourist Info offices, or download offline Google Maps ahead
  • See most important sites first, in case of unexpected closures
  • Go to sites early/late to avoid crowds (siesta when sites busy). Sites have ‘last entry 1 hr prior to close’
  • Peak season is June through August and again during the late December holiday period 
  • Very few elevators, pack light. Floor 2 is Canadian Floor 3 (ground is floor 1). 
  • Shower quickly: hot water tanks are small. Pull-cord by tub is for emergency if fall, not clothesline
  • On rainy days, may smell faint sewer odor due to very old city septic tanks, not harmful
  • Use Messager, Facetime, Fongo, Skype, What’s App for calling. What’s App is popular in Europe
  • How to call Canada from France: instructions (different for cell or landline), or use Fongo VOIP
  • Back up your cell to cloud before travelling, enable Find My Phone in case it is lost, do updates on wifi before you go & keep in airplane mode when not in use to reduce cellular (check apps using high data)
  • Numbers: comas are decimal points, decimals are commas ($1.50 = €1,50, a thousand is 1.000)
  • Count with thumb first (if hold up pointer finger for 1, they might give you 2 items)
  • French are very polite/reserved: always say Bonjour when entering a shop; smiles are earned.
  • Strikes are extremely common – ask at a hotel/care to see how long they’re expected to last. Book your most important sites first, so you have flexibility to try again later if they’re on strike.
  • European rooms are usually very small & compact, but you’re spending most of the time out exploring
  • Accor ‘Ibis Budget’ chain or hiphophostels.com have reasonable hotel rates if issues with Airbnb cancelling last minute (can explore via Google street-view to ensure safe neighbourhood & see what’s nearby).
  • Settle up bill the night before to reduce time in the morning when rushing to airport